Saturday, December 25, 2010

Bengal-Ground Zero

Not so long ago, when I was growing up in Shillong(Meghalaya), Kolkata, WB was heard to be a brobdingnagian city with spread out arms. It had huge Anglican churches, schools, reputed colleges, libraries, pandemic roads one would likely get lost if crowd was in mood to sway you. I remember pleading my dad to handcuff me whenever he took me there. I was petrified of that place.
Nothing much has changed from thereon. Today, it is my hubby who literally handcuffs me as we trod across the lanes of Kolkata (if I am blessed to walk).

Transfer to Kolkata is showing us different layers of life and almost forces on us to see the other side of human face.

This city of joy is for sure joyful in the eyes of many my close friends who have claimed to love it for being the centre of culture, heritage, literature, art, food and have gone all gaga over it. Yes, independently, such claims go unrifled. Ignore all those that happen to your car when your neighbor teaches his kid to scratch on it. Turn a deaf ear to the day long political lectures rattling from the loudspeakers. Narrow lanes are not a problem at all if one enjoys human touches! Forget your vehicle; you’ll come back adorning it with paan stains. The neighborhood shopkeeper refuses to give you the grocery because someday you might have purchased something else from the other one who is affiliated to the opposing party.

Politics, politics and drum full of it is in the air.


Driving 4/5hours away from the state capital: one would instantly understand why Shyam Benegal, Mrinal Sen or any art director’s dream location ends up being Bengal& outskirts of it. Deep forests, palm trees, dirt tracks, oodles of water bodies ( pukur) and spread out fields. Women folks draped in traditionally 9mtrs saris. Picturesque! Handpumps still in use. The wells still on the main road and women folks just out from perfect movie scenes form queues and carry water pots on their hips and heads. Any photographers, movie makers dream place. Aha!


As night falls, one understands and confronts darkness. One wonders if one traveled through a time warp. No electricity, no poles in sight. Electricity supply from generator comes at a premium: a bleak possibility across large tracts of rural Bengal. The sound of vehicle brings out people from their warm hideouts. Sound of night insects, crickets, animals haunts as one stands wondering to find a way out.

Having met a father who fell on my knees howling and cheeks wet, I was astounded for a minute before the movie shot. His son was killed by unidentified men and his body immediately fuelled political machinations. In death a village boy attained martyrdom. The parents denied the last rite.
Sunk in tears, they sat silently at the threshold of their mud house, as the eerie silence gnawed at their very being.
The noise of silence struck from all around. Fear propelled denial of information when one looks for them. The village assumes a dumb look. No one knew them when we didn’t.
As they begin to talk in inaudible voices, from nowhere a crowd gathers. Threatened and curious eyes greet us with looks of a cornered lamb. Wolves lurk behind. We had to move. Move quick before the dark gets darker. And so we did. Speeding out of the dirt track for almost an hour till we reached the pitched road, we carried along the silence of the grave. Uneasiness loomed large. Words in Jangalmahal travel fast… faster than us…

Second fear was to cross the infamous Jhitka forest. Yes, life granted. We pinched ourselves to believe we were breathing, reached human habitation. Grabbed fresh air, refueled and in the darkness of the wintry night the hamlet left behind to settle down and whisk out of sight as the dusts covered the scenes and we wheeled our out.

India then came to me in amazing form. It was lost in all its glitz and glamour, malls and marketed monuments. All the wall breaking pronouncements have fallen off. These were places 21 centuries behind. The hamlets we see from the windows of moving vehicles remain the same. For some reasons, Peepli live just gets life for few seconds and then sidelined from the mainstream. What happens to hundreds, thousands of Peepli’s, no one wastes a wink. Poverty tourism of the scion continues as Kalavati’s son in law in Vidarbha kills himself for debt. Dimpled youth icon still draws huge crowd in colleges. India indeed shines.
Does it really make a sense to diary this account or for that matter does any news piece make a difference? Somewhere, somehow a little change may follow. Hope can only ring aloud.

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Thursday, November 18, 2010

She



Everyday
from behind the betel nut leaves
a day just lays treat
swaying low and high
swinging even now
when you sigh
from a distance
miles, miles away
flapping sounds of Ganga
leaves me tingled,
Howrah in his majestic silver
marshals Bengal.
“Durga,Durga!!!”(*i)
All around
in clay, on the walls, on the sleeves, tattoos too.
Kali Maa*(ii) not left behind
the dry dung lanes,
dingy hour-basis inns
sprawling dense ponds
her hands
full on her long, well-done plaits
She leaves you loved.
Playful, petite, pleasant she
“Doesn’t she look old?”- asks Harun
the slave gets an answer
“yes, some three hundred years old.
was a priestess when I first saw her.”
“Joba”(*iii) she insists,
on every visit,
you pay.
She corrects you: “Rakta, Rakta Joba”*(iv)
when you meet next.
A decade back, she was in Dakshineshwar
now I see her
singing high notes
from the papaya branches,
the niddling coconut trees
the grey clouds, the trampled ghats(*v)
Now
left to every passers by
Even those who play “slogan- slogan”.
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(this is a poetry keeping West Bengal as a base, a fraction of its part plucked …)
*i: regular phrase used by Bengalis,a form of Goddess
*ii: Goddess Durga’s other form
*iii: Hibiscus (Hibiscus schizopetalus)
*iv: blood,blood Hibiscus
*v: river landing
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Saturday, September 18, 2010

Preparing Skin: KOLKATA-I

About two months back as Gujarat was bid adieu, least was known that Maidan(a locale;Kolkata) does not blanket upon Kolkata. Kolkata is just not populous, it’s crowd, its streets, its market places are all fulminating.



                                                             maidan,Kolkata



Politics screams at your face. Even an apolitical person comme moi can judge the weight of the see-saw. Within the ring is TMC & CPI (M), democracy a farce. Trust me, its an out and out muscle wriggling act. One never knows when one disappears after having made a comment either for/against the ruling party or the stronger opposition. One has to keep ones eyes wandering about and locate the flags stacked at very significant locations. One can flatly identify where he/she stands: a ruling party’s/an oppositions! Beware-“dog’s watching over”.

Power-cut, extortion in the name of party fund (chanda aka dhanda!), protection fee, no work& pay money, all thumbs attitude, strikes: symbol of India’s intellectual base!
At this point my close friends’ comments echo: “intellectuals are by nature clumsy”!

With our affright experiences, we do not have too many lovely words for Kolkata at this moment in our kitty as we hop from one shelter to another. It appears to be all-absorbing only when one gives up on good quality of living. Regular abuses, spitting, muscle flexing political alliances all uprightly hurled on you. In a month’s stay in the present house taken up as rent, not a single day could we wake up to a well lit room. Marshes, huge tall grasses &a rain- supported pond: housing a seven feet water snake, living in Kolkata is giving the two vagabonds real taste of knuckle sandwich.

From the corner of my eyes: Kolkata weeps from every ridge of its washed away age old forts& buildings. Houses fudged together between 1865-1925 ogle at you as you begin wondering if you are in a b&w era. Photogenic!!! But solemn. Every building appears to be a Stephen house in waiting. Wires springing out, hanging from above, below, left& right: fearful! Weak knees of those ageing shelters leave one shuddered.


                                                          stephen house,Kolkata

Notes taken, shots too! Kolkata strikes a pose with long, very much told tales and the Howrah Bridge with its swollen breasts. Tagore (poems, quotes, songs) afloat all over: from the constant puddle roads to the inconsistent crowd. Ganga too has slimmed down; I wouldn’t call it anorexic, but sure soon she would. With dirt and houses, apartments and bridges assembling closer to the Ghats she has chosen to surrender to the call of the metro- needs. Traveling from one corner to another becomes an experience worth every panic. One has to annul the term ‘Punctuality’ from ones dictionary. And if one intends to still hold onto it then 3 hrs prior to a meeting, one has to embark. Apart from crushing ones bones, the metro pulps the soul too.

Dislike/ hate /despise are strong adjectives. While describing Kolkata, my sentences would not endorse such terms. Years of city-life have not been successful in transforming my taste. Malls, skyscraping concrete jungles still don’t fill me with joy or wonder.

Impressive for sure is the language. I get to hear my mother tongue everywhere. Wish I could understand the colours of my own language too. Geographic differences instill differences in the mindset too. Bengalis out of Kolkata are not the ones who live here.

Kolkata for sure is letting me learn to read &write my mother tongue: I could never pick up during my growing up days in Shillong. Sign boards are good primers for a beginner. Whatever little Gujarati was picked up, sign boards fashionably pick up the credit! One more thing I am enjoying the most is listening to and watching Bangla songs& movies. A great respite!

Reading Tagore is such a delight.
From the solemn gloom of the temple children run out to sit in the dust, God watches them play and forgets the priest.” Rabindranath Tagore

Its also true that bongs couldn’t go beyond Tagore. I often feel it’s pretty tough on the other poets & writers like Nazrul or Jibananda Das who miss out a breathless reference in the regular bong conversations. Their contribution to bangla literature had been immense. Tagore on the other hand, is a state of the art. He enjoys all of it. Tagore is a passport to Bengal’s acceptance. I stand alone, failing to quote him in Bangla.

As far as the creative world is concerned the ensuing Durga Puja will as promised showcase all that is CREATIVE in the strictest term of it. From idols made of biscuits to chocolates, from scrap papers to roses- it will for sure be worth an experience.

All that awaits this scribbler is a little peaceful co- habitation with the 7 ft reptile that rambles around the present shelter and wishes never to confront. But photographing it is still a consideration (from a distance/unreachable height)!

Very soon I choose to braid my kind with all that needs to shape up a good bong out of me. My skin prepares to deep six the unkind, unpleasant metro labels and commix with the neo- ground: good/ bad: leaving it for the days to come to judge it all. “I have become my own version of an optimist. If I can't make it through one door, I'll go through another door - or I'll make a door. Something terrific will come no matter how dark the present.” Tagore again. See I am fast at adapting…

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Friday, September 10, 2010

FIRST BURST



Wriggling from within

blood draped, a tuft of flesh burst out

the first glimpse of the world and

the wail never stopped…


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SILENT






Young veiled faces,
unschooled anger brews
Death smacked…
SILENT grief falls with a thud
stone-strewn land
dreams here
standstill
war-clad.

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Thursday, July 8, 2010

Aavjo Amdavaad


 the disappearing 'ha'...it was soon becoming 'am'...the aham(ego) was lost as we flew away towards different terrain...

























*Ahmedabad through a photo chromatic lens…
82months&13 days halt…

Those many days back… like the millions many rootless wanderers in bigger better cities, we rambled around this vast one too. Tall buildings, broad streets, lights, crowd, eateries, discos, NID, IIM, CEPT, Darpana Academy…what else would a gremlin far from North-eastern part of the country want! The sight was so devouring. What tugged at my heart all the more was the freedom with which we could walk along with the crowd. Anybody from NE would know how it feels when you are categorized as ‘outsiders’. They who were out in the streets didn’t call us that. We were just anybody. There was nothing at all to worry about, time -2a.m.we were in a lane where the fete just seemed to have begun. Those were something new to me & as I drew closer to my little nest, there was a lot of appreciation for this part of the country that didn’t advertise but opened the window of freedom to us.
*Ahmedabad sans make up… 

Just after marriage with a tag ‘just married’ we tried hard to knit along with the mass. Little accounts from the man who went out & earned the bread for the two of us repelled both of us. The ‘su bhao che’ nature of the natives just left us pretty dejected. Not that I returned with a different tale from my work place. (My tales are almost case studies.)There wasn’t too many decent places where one could sit, chat, unwind. CCD’s, the malls, the shopping centres didn’t much appeal to our taste. Very soon it sank in us. We were here for work, and a new beginning didn’t much begin here. Wake up, go to work, come back home: fatigued, irritated, choked up, dine& go to bed. That was a routine: we followed the prescribed table. We were travelling almost on that very line when slowly and unhintedly, we started catching up with people…our little network just built. That was towards the last two years of our stay. 
We had couple of social visits, went for long drives, called up our friends and planned for late night dinners, gloated ourselves laughing out our brains when on one such late night picking up and going for dinner drove us to Udaipur. We didn’t have to wake up, we woke up Udaipur! And then onwards we have begun to store in the bare minimum essentials for travelling in our vehicle. Lest we end up purchasing things from every part of the country…I still remember ones we reached Udaipur, our friend puts up a proposal of driving up to Delhi, U.P. the list endless. I was so petrified. I swear I had my heart out. Because I know that ones a thing is spelt, somehow my hubby would do anything to meet it. Thankfully we were not carrying our plastic money, it saved me from the horror. Nevertheless, our discomfiture about the natives and also about the place continued along the line. We somehow managed to create a niche for ourselves in few pockets of the city. 

*Ahmedabad was just about to make us social…

When one fine day, the transfer letter reaches. Happily we pack and load all that was assimilated in those living years. The same apartment I came in as a bride, the pharmacist who stayed awakened days in and out to check on our health, the rooms where poems took birth, where we debated upon nth no. of political/apolitical issues, ruffled the neighborhood with our anarchic laughter& re-discovered a bond with my colonial cousin& discussing issues related to our north-east corner. It was getting way more difficult to scratch out the images of hundred of students who never left me alone. I remember Principal HK trying to track me down through the cctv& saying"jahan bachche bheer mein honge,wohi madam hogi"(madam would be in a place where a flock of students would be huddled). In just few moments, we set all of them free in the open to let another dream weaver hop in.

The thought of leaving A’bad hit us hardest the day we loaded our household stuff. We were uncaged. And then it was time for both of us to weep in our respective spaces. As we jounced in to a rickshaw I just couldn’t bid farewell to a family friend of ours. I realized I was crippling. Veiling my face with a dupatta off we frizzled out in the heat. 

Pain weighed.

Yes, it is difficult to close down A’bad chapter… it just absorbs one, as it finally did to us when we had left behind its terrains… 

I gathered that it rained two days later, just the day we reached Kolkata. 

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Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Shillong- trois i'an plus tard

45 degrees and still surviving…

Years back when I got married to a Journo work-based in Ahmedabad, least was known that behind all the glitz and glamour of this history draped city, life would be arduous in the western wing of the country. North-east’s Shillong glistened every next hour after fresh downpour. That was the place I was born& brought up in. Temperature not shooting up over 18 degrees( that was long back, I am told!)! The handbag has to be loaded with umbrella, raincoat.

This was our 2nd visit after seven no moisture years. The outside temperature was 46 degrees as we were all set to escape to the east. It was just a while later that bumpy flight reminded us of cloud, rains, thunderstorm. Heat wave had long back frothed away. Flight delayed and we reached Guwahati airport pretty late in terms of North East time. All our happiness to reach Shillong seemed such a dreadful venture. While our co-passengers skirted away much before we actually pinched out the reason. We were left almost helplessly wandering. It was almost 8 p.m and things were darker than black. North east shuts early. Which is why it becomes pretty unnerving to be left marooned in any part of NE. There are options in other cities from Kolkata onwards, if ten vehicle wallahs refuse, there will be ten others to strike a deal to drop you to your destination. It is really different here and we were proven sophistic in believing that things had opened up in NE. Assimilating little gumption, my throat made some crackling sound and that happened to be in Assamese. Trust me, that helped us get going. Soon a young lad approached and in no time we were zoomed out of the departure after a flat one hour ordeal. The fella helped us with a connecting vehicle that would trip us through the hilly turf. And off we were! Half past 3 hour sojourn: the akin, unaltered bumpy-dusty road led us. We snaked our way through smirking at the same old signboards ’work gong on’ just with the ardent hope to reach home at the earliest. Finally we did, but were soon aware of the never acquainted load shedding. Lights went off before we could unload.

Next morn inhaling fresh cold air eyes strolled all over. We perhaps had come of age. Things did not seem as pleasant as it did in so many years to love the place from miles, miles and miles distanced.

Our place has lost the European cloud. The sky is dusty now. The streets so anti-anglicized. And lo! The skull caps, the veils which we never did see during our growing up times are almost everywhere. From selling fishes, eggs, vegetables, qai ( betel leaf combined with areca nut) to darting away on the threadlike Shillong lanes on an SUV. One could now confront feminine frames veiled! Missionary schools introduced salwar-suits as school uniforms! Missed out on noticing School girls from Loreto Convent though. (It was difficult to commute during school hours). Another eye-brow raising observation is that the Assam type one floor houses have been replaced by high rise buildings and flats. One strong tremor and everything reduces to brown.




Next noteworthy transition is, all of a sudden every house now has begun to flaunt more than one four wheeler. Now, a hill station with very narrow lanes is failing to manage traffic congestion. Hours of getting stranded in the town is just another acceptable situation.



Yes, things sported a pretty liberal and unchained look. But where are the denizens? PB was thronged by all kind of people in different plaintive shades, bizarre to an aging Shillongite. Young graduating faces were amiss. Reason: soon after exam results there is a craze among youths to hunt out opportunities outside NE. (Irrefutably no options left, no opportunities built).No doubt development, liberalization is a crunching need to make a town visible. For the first time, seeing the barren hills, the waxed up lands, fashionable hill station draping in not so different attire that was left behind, proper political leadership, people’s movement, proper media reporting, academic lip services were felt a must.

Interestingly, Shillong streets too kept my mind churning. The local taxis/cab which drove us from one corner to another in mere Rs5 (share taxi), now affirmatively nodded only when the drivers had a mood to!!! If you are fortunate enough you could “book” a cab and that remember would charge you tongue-out rent. Just a reminder, the city buses are no longer plying on the streets! They’d be placed well, soon at the Shillong museum. Don’t miss out on that on your next trip!

Since hiring a vehicle to commute within the city was an ordeal, walking was picked up as the best(est) means. And trust me burnt down out the adipose tissues accumulated. In just two weeks my love for the crowded Shillong was nearing tail out. But. It was during a very hasty drive to Mylliem and The Sacred Grove that emotion flung wide open. And then was it recognized that it wasn’t easy enough to fall out of love for my birth place even though it was wearing out of its natural glow. Half an hour drive from the snarled- up slim lanes just let me rekindle my love.

A thought crossed as I sat stretching my ken far and wide all around me, while I sat on the lap of green mattress (read grasses): the sacred grove needs to be left appreciated from a distance &not ventured within. One can do away with commercialization. As we moved towards the skimpily stretched town, prayer was left for its survival.
.
We are the selfish lots and nothing pleases us more than responding to our needs.


Sacred grove, Shillong
The need of this moment is summing up. I am for reasons believable not being selfish but considerate. As I sum up, the cerebral hemisphere is knocked upon by truck full of thoughts. Why do we always crave to hold onto whatever we grow up with, why do we fail to appreciate change? How does one justify a positive or a negative change? Yes, change is indispensable but to what extent can we let it expand its tentacles?

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Saturday, May 1, 2010

weekend


My factory has been lying sealed

since days,
no weeks,
months now…
The words have gone on for a fall out
picketing away in the heat of the night
Leaving me
poetryrupt.
Turning on the pages of accounts
Not a line turned over,
Wordless yard stretching yellow brown
Sinking in my own torrent,
not a little courage let out
the old lock,
on my half shredded diary
makes me feel little awry.
46 clicks, and
I am on
churning
alphabets after alphabets.
smelling, oiling, packaging them
my fingers chore,
tooling for a centless reward
what the mill so long reaped
Poetry baby steps
in the wee hour
praying, I close my eyes
seconds later
out of the window, Monday cries.