Showing posts with label Shillong. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Shillong. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

#3 belles-lettres

Gormi Jokhon tutlo na aar pakhar haowa Sarbote – thandahote daure elum – Shillong namak porbote” (When the heat of summer could not bemet even with fans and soft drinks, I rushed to the hills of Shillong)

You have been here not ones but thrice! O great bard! Under those pine trees your words blossomed. Clouds here come blanketing fast, pretty fast, just the way your verses pace into the hearts of your readers….pouring life to breezy, hazy thoughts..As I strolled in and out of a rich, fertile piece of plot, the richness of it made me walk opulent of scheming prose. Jeetbhumi* laden with belles-lettres hasn't as yet shown signs of molting when all others around have. It stands somber,emanating pedantry holding the beacon of wisdom. The pine trees still fans the pillars ones which lent its shoulders to the ageless bard. 

Even the alphabets must have had their share of joy in coming together for you...

A hundred bow and a plenty more…

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*Indian Nobel laureate Tagore stayed in this house in Shillong( capital of Meghalaya, India)during his second visit in the year 1921 owned then by his niece, Manisha Debi. 

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

déjà vu


'Gone are the days when we were strong and our land voiced our opinions'
After the KSU rally, even i was taken aback by the violence that followed but i supported their cause. However, it surprise me now as how people are quick to condemn these acts without consideration as to why such act happen. In any revolution, violence has always been a vital part of the struggle if the continuous plea for reforms and development falls on deaf ears. How long can we shut up and eat hay while the powerful eat cakes? Why are we allowing ourself be the minority in our god given land. It is our right to fight with might. How dare they threaten us with trade ban(as per shg times report) and how dare they try to dictate us.
I say long live the KSU, and other ngo's who got balls to fight for my right.
I say Awake oh Khasi people and see that we are now the minority.
I say long live the KSU, and other ngo's who got balls to fight for my right.I say Awake oh Khasi people and see that we are now the minority.




I say OCCUPY MEGHALAYA!!!

This is a Facebook status of a group with little less than thousand members liking its posts and the page.To have a status such as this only indicates the insecurity of a small community that has stayed curled up in its beautiful hills, contented within its gyre. A paradise for many, the land hasn't as yet "developed" much. 


 Just four days back on the 4th of April 2013, the violent rampage of a vibrant location in Shillong stood as a reminder. Demand for an inner line permit, demand for asking the outsiders to go back (Indians have replaced Simon who are now to go back!), call for occupying Meghalaya just jogged most of our memories who grew up in a volatile part of India steered by a certain students' union that it is a déjà vu for those who have been living with it since the attainment of statehood status from Assam in 1970.


Most of these chaps who indulge in the brutalizing the "others" act after a nod from the students' union. Unleashing the well nurtured hidden anger leads to  loosening of the purse strings of the pacificists. More hooch flow, some celebratory non-tribal bashing and then the world becomes rosy again. Staying "Indian", though by accident comes with its share of benefits, best understood by the minions of those who swear on their blood for their identity and trade it with the first possible sign of a better life. 

The saddest part is Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya often is in news for wrong reasons. In any case mainstream media like the Govt in the center refuse to acknowledge their existence. There is either Chinese incursion or the ethnic riot which manages a few second airtime and couple of hundred words in the print. Rest do not matter. 



Incidences like this only reopen the wounds and keep it festering. 

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Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Where is home, away from home…

For some of us who are lifelong jugglers, moving from one place to another confront a world if not hostile a little antagonistic for sure. While mingling with the host community, most migrants go through some kind of alienation, more or less the similar kind of otherness.

The resistance can be from both parties, the host and the migrants or either of them.




Today, retirement from work place settles us. The young are on a constant move: the migratory birds. Better opportunity, better life calls the shot. This call brings with it several tests, with few rewards, sometimes a lot of pain. Most youngsters have learnt to flow with the stream. Very few, go through self imposed isolation. (On one hand while we like to believe that we are global citizens, we tightly hold our small little pieces of perceived identity close to us)

I have been travelling all along.

During my growing up days my father being a Govt. employee went through numerous transfers. So we got to see a lot of the world we had to constantly struggle to make our own. Then came a time when my father decided upon stationing the family while he toured around with his transfer orders. We settled in a place I was born in. That became my native, so did it for the other members. We are a small family of four. But each one of us was born in different parts of the country. Only I benefited living in my birth place. 


If today I ask my family members to shift from my birth place (I have a decade back left the place), the simple straight unanimous chorus would be a loud “NO”. Reasons are too many. Even if that is not our native, we were migrants. My father happened to be there because of his uncle, my mother and their two children for him. But the place has grown within. The local tribe takes away the cake.  Educated, soft-spoken, their impromptu smile sets them apart from the rest of 634 indigenous groups recognized in India. The English climate too becomes a strong reason.

From the local taxi drivers to the kong (an honorific for the Khasi ladies) selling betel nut, each one of them would greet you with an easy smile. You might not know the language and they not yours but the language of smile and the response to a greet melts one. A total stranger greeting the other from the opposite side would always bear a response. Such was my birth place.

I am talking about Shillong and its aborigines.

We have grown up in the sharp divide between the ‘them’ and the ‘us’. The antagonism between the natives and the settlers date back far before my father’s birth. Political divide the powerful reason. We learnt to rest this divide under the carpet. In schools, colleges, market, locality we spoke about everything but the dissever. In between though competition of throwing the best banters continued. I personally never experienced such exchanges nor was I a witness to such splashes. Stories from friends’ friends, friends’ brothers, drew close a house warm-up evening.

There were positive curfews we grew up with; positive meant lot of TV watching, cricket playing, catching up with neighbors, sharing delicious meals, paving secret ways through one’s kitchen garden to another’s! Most children born and living between1960-2000 grew up with these positive bandhs and curfews. There were troubles; there were murders, the usual bloodshed: the natives vs the settlers (mostly Bengalis, Biharis and Nepalis). All who bossed around were the local students’ union. The govt. invariably gave in to their demands. Deep inside we always wished otherwise for the sheer disappointment of losing a long vacation. Resistance from the govt. meant longer strikes, longer breaks from time-tabled studies.

I still recollect how chilling it was to walk all by myself holding my younger sibling after we were dropped by our school bus in a deserted city which suddenly went through curfew. Everyone in the broad day light had reached home, since we studied in an outskirt school and travelled to a no-outsider zone Mawlai, invariably travelling out of Mawlai took a long hour and half to reach home. The sound of my naughty boy shoe still, reverberates.

More than fear it was sheer thrill of being in command of the situation that made the moment special. On reaching our locality, some local boys applauded my courage. Felt good, when my parents took a sigh of relief and said they were in panic of waiting for our safe return. The local goons had been monitoring each outsider’s house. Such was the fear of growing up in an acknowledged disturbed region.

It is, I am told a different place now.

Today, in a free world where we move in& out of our homes at any time, celebrate Indian festivals makes us feel good. Nightlife was beyond the boundary of imagination in Shillong those days. Days wrapped up by 6 p.m. By dusk most people deserted the streets. Nights certainly weren’t fun at all. The TV volume too had to be very low, and we huddled close to the TV sets. It was only sleeping & studying we managed to do. Childhood fizzled out under blankets.

But, these are not all. There has been curfew-free, politically peaceful time when we caught up with our neighbors, friends. Shillong had all the right elements for making a world-denizen. From discussion on books to enjoying listening to rock bands, from cultural festivals to All Souls’ Day procession: we had real quality time. Great academicians to poets, from Lou Majaw to Writers’ meet : Shillong has always been at the helm of such activities in spite of the disturbances. We grew up fairly well. Well enough to face a world geographically, literally known to us.

Standing alone in a place that faces the Arabian Sea in its west, the being finds it pretty challenging now more than often to face a crowd who has enjoyed ‘freedom’ to the fullest. All that my birth place nurtured me with most often perspires through the rough brows of the people I have to be now, a part of. A greet today is received with remarks like, that’s not Indian (!). In India we aren’t formal. In India there is no privacy, etc etc.

Looks like I come from a different planet. All the niceties I have brought in from my birth place fail me when I am all out to melt, all out to discover oneness.

It’s nice to hear phrases like ‘a home away from home’, I am out to discover…

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Saturday, December 25, 2010

Bengal-Ground Zero

Not so long ago, when I was growing up in Shillong(Meghalaya), Kolkata, WB was heard to be a brobdingnagian city with spread out arms. It had huge Anglican churches, schools, reputed colleges, libraries, pandemic roads one would likely get lost if crowd was in mood to sway you. I remember pleading my dad to handcuff me whenever he took me there. I was petrified of that place.
Nothing much has changed from thereon. Today, it is my hubby who literally handcuffs me as we trod across the lanes of Kolkata (if I am blessed to walk).

Transfer to Kolkata is showing us different layers of life and almost forces on us to see the other side of human face.

This city of joy is for sure joyful in the eyes of many my close friends who have claimed to love it for being the centre of culture, heritage, literature, art, food and have gone all gaga over it. Yes, independently, such claims go unrifled. Ignore all those that happen to your car when your neighbor teaches his kid to scratch on it. Turn a deaf ear to the day long political lectures rattling from the loudspeakers. Narrow lanes are not a problem at all if one enjoys human touches! Forget your vehicle; you’ll come back adorning it with paan stains. The neighborhood shopkeeper refuses to give you the grocery because someday you might have purchased something else from the other one who is affiliated to the opposing party.

Politics, politics and drum full of it is in the air.


Driving 4/5hours away from the state capital: one would instantly understand why Shyam Benegal, Mrinal Sen or any art director’s dream location ends up being Bengal& outskirts of it. Deep forests, palm trees, dirt tracks, oodles of water bodies ( pukur) and spread out fields. Women folks draped in traditionally 9mtrs saris. Picturesque! Handpumps still in use. The wells still on the main road and women folks just out from perfect movie scenes form queues and carry water pots on their hips and heads. Any photographers, movie makers dream place. Aha!


As night falls, one understands and confronts darkness. One wonders if one traveled through a time warp. No electricity, no poles in sight. Electricity supply from generator comes at a premium: a bleak possibility across large tracts of rural Bengal. The sound of vehicle brings out people from their warm hideouts. Sound of night insects, crickets, animals haunts as one stands wondering to find a way out.

Having met a father who fell on my knees howling and cheeks wet, I was astounded for a minute before the movie shot. His son was killed by unidentified men and his body immediately fuelled political machinations. In death a village boy attained martyrdom. The parents denied the last rite.
Sunk in tears, they sat silently at the threshold of their mud house, as the eerie silence gnawed at their very being.
The noise of silence struck from all around. Fear propelled denial of information when one looks for them. The village assumes a dumb look. No one knew them when we didn’t.
As they begin to talk in inaudible voices, from nowhere a crowd gathers. Threatened and curious eyes greet us with looks of a cornered lamb. Wolves lurk behind. We had to move. Move quick before the dark gets darker. And so we did. Speeding out of the dirt track for almost an hour till we reached the pitched road, we carried along the silence of the grave. Uneasiness loomed large. Words in Jangalmahal travel fast… faster than us…

Second fear was to cross the infamous Jhitka forest. Yes, life granted. We pinched ourselves to believe we were breathing, reached human habitation. Grabbed fresh air, refueled and in the darkness of the wintry night the hamlet left behind to settle down and whisk out of sight as the dusts covered the scenes and we wheeled our out.

India then came to me in amazing form. It was lost in all its glitz and glamour, malls and marketed monuments. All the wall breaking pronouncements have fallen off. These were places 21 centuries behind. The hamlets we see from the windows of moving vehicles remain the same. For some reasons, Peepli live just gets life for few seconds and then sidelined from the mainstream. What happens to hundreds, thousands of Peepli’s, no one wastes a wink. Poverty tourism of the scion continues as Kalavati’s son in law in Vidarbha kills himself for debt. Dimpled youth icon still draws huge crowd in colleges. India indeed shines.
Does it really make a sense to diary this account or for that matter does any news piece make a difference? Somewhere, somehow a little change may follow. Hope can only ring aloud.

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Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Shillong- trois i'an plus tard

45 degrees and still surviving…

Years back when I got married to a Journo work-based in Ahmedabad, least was known that behind all the glitz and glamour of this history draped city, life would be arduous in the western wing of the country. North-east’s Shillong glistened every next hour after fresh downpour. That was the place I was born& brought up in. Temperature not shooting up over 18 degrees( that was long back, I am told!)! The handbag has to be loaded with umbrella, raincoat.

This was our 2nd visit after seven no moisture years. The outside temperature was 46 degrees as we were all set to escape to the east. It was just a while later that bumpy flight reminded us of cloud, rains, thunderstorm. Heat wave had long back frothed away. Flight delayed and we reached Guwahati airport pretty late in terms of North East time. All our happiness to reach Shillong seemed such a dreadful venture. While our co-passengers skirted away much before we actually pinched out the reason. We were left almost helplessly wandering. It was almost 8 p.m and things were darker than black. North east shuts early. Which is why it becomes pretty unnerving to be left marooned in any part of NE. There are options in other cities from Kolkata onwards, if ten vehicle wallahs refuse, there will be ten others to strike a deal to drop you to your destination. It is really different here and we were proven sophistic in believing that things had opened up in NE. Assimilating little gumption, my throat made some crackling sound and that happened to be in Assamese. Trust me, that helped us get going. Soon a young lad approached and in no time we were zoomed out of the departure after a flat one hour ordeal. The fella helped us with a connecting vehicle that would trip us through the hilly turf. And off we were! Half past 3 hour sojourn: the akin, unaltered bumpy-dusty road led us. We snaked our way through smirking at the same old signboards ’work gong on’ just with the ardent hope to reach home at the earliest. Finally we did, but were soon aware of the never acquainted load shedding. Lights went off before we could unload.

Next morn inhaling fresh cold air eyes strolled all over. We perhaps had come of age. Things did not seem as pleasant as it did in so many years to love the place from miles, miles and miles distanced.

Our place has lost the European cloud. The sky is dusty now. The streets so anti-anglicized. And lo! The skull caps, the veils which we never did see during our growing up times are almost everywhere. From selling fishes, eggs, vegetables, qai ( betel leaf combined with areca nut) to darting away on the threadlike Shillong lanes on an SUV. One could now confront feminine frames veiled! Missionary schools introduced salwar-suits as school uniforms! Missed out on noticing School girls from Loreto Convent though. (It was difficult to commute during school hours). Another eye-brow raising observation is that the Assam type one floor houses have been replaced by high rise buildings and flats. One strong tremor and everything reduces to brown.




Next noteworthy transition is, all of a sudden every house now has begun to flaunt more than one four wheeler. Now, a hill station with very narrow lanes is failing to manage traffic congestion. Hours of getting stranded in the town is just another acceptable situation.



Yes, things sported a pretty liberal and unchained look. But where are the denizens? PB was thronged by all kind of people in different plaintive shades, bizarre to an aging Shillongite. Young graduating faces were amiss. Reason: soon after exam results there is a craze among youths to hunt out opportunities outside NE. (Irrefutably no options left, no opportunities built).No doubt development, liberalization is a crunching need to make a town visible. For the first time, seeing the barren hills, the waxed up lands, fashionable hill station draping in not so different attire that was left behind, proper political leadership, people’s movement, proper media reporting, academic lip services were felt a must.

Interestingly, Shillong streets too kept my mind churning. The local taxis/cab which drove us from one corner to another in mere Rs5 (share taxi), now affirmatively nodded only when the drivers had a mood to!!! If you are fortunate enough you could “book” a cab and that remember would charge you tongue-out rent. Just a reminder, the city buses are no longer plying on the streets! They’d be placed well, soon at the Shillong museum. Don’t miss out on that on your next trip!

Since hiring a vehicle to commute within the city was an ordeal, walking was picked up as the best(est) means. And trust me burnt down out the adipose tissues accumulated. In just two weeks my love for the crowded Shillong was nearing tail out. But. It was during a very hasty drive to Mylliem and The Sacred Grove that emotion flung wide open. And then was it recognized that it wasn’t easy enough to fall out of love for my birth place even though it was wearing out of its natural glow. Half an hour drive from the snarled- up slim lanes just let me rekindle my love.

A thought crossed as I sat stretching my ken far and wide all around me, while I sat on the lap of green mattress (read grasses): the sacred grove needs to be left appreciated from a distance &not ventured within. One can do away with commercialization. As we moved towards the skimpily stretched town, prayer was left for its survival.
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We are the selfish lots and nothing pleases us more than responding to our needs.


Sacred grove, Shillong
The need of this moment is summing up. I am for reasons believable not being selfish but considerate. As I sum up, the cerebral hemisphere is knocked upon by truck full of thoughts. Why do we always crave to hold onto whatever we grow up with, why do we fail to appreciate change? How does one justify a positive or a negative change? Yes, change is indispensable but to what extent can we let it expand its tentacles?

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